Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Fruit in City Spaces

Each quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel-powered train arrives at a spray-painted stop. Nearby, a police siren cuts through the near-constant road noise. Commuters hurry past collapsing, ivy-covered fencing panels as storm clouds form.

This is perhaps the least likely spot you expect to find a perfectly formed vineyard. However James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated four dozen established plants sagging with plump purplish grapes on a rambling allotment situated between a row of historic homes and a commuter railway just north of the city downtown.

"I've seen people hiding illegal substances or other items in the shrubbery," states Bayliss-Smith. "But you just get on with it ... and keep tending to your grapevines."

Bayliss-Smith, 46, a filmmaker who runs a kombucha drinks business, is not the only local vintner. He has pulled together a loose collective of cultivators who produce wine from four discreet city grape gardens nestled in back gardens and community plots across Bristol. The project is too clandestine to have an official name yet, but the collective's messaging chat is called Vineyard Dreams.

City Wine Gardens Around the Globe

To date, Bayliss-Smith's plot is the sole location listed in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming global directory, which includes better-known city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred vines on the hillsides of the French capital's historic Montmartre area and over three thousand grapevines overlooking and within Turin. Based in Italy non-profit association is at the vanguard of a initiative re-establishing city vineyards in historic wine-producing countries, but has identified them all over the world, including urban centers in Japan, South Asia and Uzbekistan.

"Grape gardens help cities stay greener and ecologically varied. They preserve open space from development by establishing long-term, productive agricultural units inside cities," explains the organization's leader.

Similar to other vintages, those created in cities are a result of the earth the vines grow in, the unpredictability of the climate and the people who care for the grapes. "Each vintage represents the beauty, local spirit, environment and history of a city," adds the president.

Unknown Eastern European Grapes

Back in the city, the grower is in a urgent timeline to gather the vines he grew from a cutting left in his garden by a Polish family. Should the precipitation comes, then the birds may seize their chance to feast again. "Here we have the mystery Polish grape," he comments, as he cleans bruised and rotten berries from the shimmering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they're definitely hardy. Unlike noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and other famous European varieties – you don't have to spray them with pesticides ... this could be a special variety that was developed by the Soviets."

Collective Activities Across the City

The other members of the group are also taking advantage of bright periods between showers of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden with views of Bristol's glistening waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with barrels of vintage from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is collecting her dark berries from approximately 50 plants. "I love the smell of these vines. It is so reminiscent," she remarks, pausing with a basket of fruit resting on her arm. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you open the car windows on holiday."

Grant, 52, who has devoted more than 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, inadvertently inherited the grape garden when she returned to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her household in recent years. She felt an strong responsibility to look after the vines in the garden of their new home. "This plot has previously survived multiple proprietors," she says. "I really like the concept of environmental care – of passing this on to future caretakers so they can continue producing from this land."

Sloping Gardens and Natural Production

Nearby, the remaining cultivators of the collective are hard at work on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has established more than one hundred fifty plants perched on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the silty River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, indicating the tangled grape garden. "They can't believe they can see grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."

Today, the filmmaker, 60, is picking clusters of deep violet dark berries from rows of vines slung across the cliff-side with the assistance of her child, Luca. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to Netflix's Great National Parks series and television network's Gardeners' World, was motivated to plant grapes after observing her neighbor's grapevines. She has learned that hobbyists can make interesting, pleasurable natural wine, which can command prices of upwards of seven pounds a serving in the growing number of establishments focusing on minimal-intervention vintages. "It is deeply rewarding that you can actually make good, natural wine," she says. "It's very on trend, but really it's resurrecting an traditional method of producing vintage."

"During foot-stomping the grapes, the various natural microorganisms come off the skins into the juice," says Scofield, partially submerged in a bucket of tiny stems, pips and red liquid. "This represents how vintages were made traditionally, but commercial producers add preservatives to eliminate the wild yeast and subsequently add a lab-grown culture."

Challenging Environments and Creative Solutions

In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who motivated Scofield to establish her grapevines, has gathered his companions to pick Chardonnay grapes from one hundred vines he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. Reeve, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who worked at Bristol University cultivated an interest in viticulture on regular visits to France. But it is a difficult task to grow Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the gorge, with cooling tides moving through from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to make French-style vintages in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," admits the retiree with amusement. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to mildew."

"I wanted to make Burgundian wines in this environment, which is rather ambitious"

The temperamental local weather is not the sole problem encountered by winegrowers. The gardener has had to erect a barrier on

Martin Bailey
Martin Bailey

A seasoned HR consultant and career coach with over a decade of experience in workplace dynamics and employee engagement.